The rest of the week is taken up with completing the report, tying up loose ends, saying goodbyes and packing!. On Wednesday I make another trip to Jakiri with Ibrahim, Hector and Shamsul to look at the possibility of creating a partnership there. Friday is International Volunteers' Day, and we attend before Ibrahim drives us back to Yaounde in the afternoon. Saturday we fly home overnight, and I am writing these last few paragraphs back home in Cardiff.
It's all too much at the moment to write final thoughts - so many different words and pictures are in my mind. Suffice it to say that it was both easier than I thought and more difficult than I thought - I was lucky in that I met some special people, both Cameroonians and in VSO - I worked hard and didn't get much time off; didn't get a chance to travel and see much of the country - didn't get to see any giraffes either!
I am happy to be back and looking forward to seeing everyone; but I have to answer the question that everyone has been asking me so far... was it worth it and would you do it again? - Well the answer is - like a shot!!
Monday 8 December 2008
Day 49: Monday 1st December 2008
Today we take a trip to visit Awing; the home village of both the Mayor of Santa and Vincent, Tom's friend, and the Mayor's driver, who has arranged to drive us there to visit the Fon (local traditional chief) in his palace, and also to visit Lake Awing, one of the larger of the volcanic lakes in the North-West Province.
The Fon has been called to the capital Yaounde, but we are shown around the palace, greeted with palm wine and introduced to some of the other residents. Lake Awing is spectacular, and the day is a pleasant break from report-writing and attending meetings!
The Fon has been called to the capital Yaounde, but we are shown around the palace, greeted with palm wine and introduced to some of the other residents. Lake Awing is spectacular, and the day is a pleasant break from report-writing and attending meetings!
Monday 24 November 2008
Sunday afternoon football .......and Monday morning distractions
Day 41: Sunday 23rd November 2008
Sunday afternoon Football
Sunday afternoon football – very serious...until the atmosphere lightens with a little playinng around!
Later “Roots” is on the TV (dubbed into French makes it even more realistic somehow) – and I am forced to think about something that I have been trying to avoid - that since I have been here, even more than in the Gambia, I often find myself turning in the street to look twice at people who look so like individuals I have known from the UK, that even the names of people that I knew many years ago come back to me, and I find myself wanting to call out to them; the reason for that is the horror of the shared history of the UK and Africa in the form of the slave trad.
Cameroon, like many other places with a coastline on the Atlantic coast of Africa, has a history intimately connected with slavery, and quite rightly it has not been forgotten here.
To know that it is not just my imagination that so many people here look like they are related to people in the UK – to know that in fact many of their common ancestors suffered the horror of abduction and enslavement, only a few generations ago; is shameful and shocking.
To know that the world has still not eradicated slavery and that many people, especially children and women are still being bought and sold, and made to work without pay, today in all parts of the world is equally shameful and shocking.
Day 42: Monday 24th November 2008
A little distraction.........
Okay - now I know it's Monday morning and I am supposed to be working, but I defy anyone to resist this young woman! She comes along, sits herself down and says "I can write 2 + 2 = 4 - let me write it" - well who could resist?? Not me - nor Tom when he arrived from Santa. This little girl, whose name is "Blessing", and who is not yet 4, jumped down from the table and ran along the path to grab his legs and hug him when she saw him coming (he seems to have a magnetic attraction for kids here - he claims that it is the opposite with kids in the UK!! -but it's not the first time I have seen this happen!)
Oh and by the way, she does normally go to school, but she has a sick brother, so her mother, who is a temporary gardener, can't pay the school fees as well as the medical bills.
Sunday afternoon Football
Sunday afternoon football – very serious...until the atmosphere lightens with a little playinng around!
Later “Roots” is on the TV (dubbed into French makes it even more realistic somehow) – and I am forced to think about something that I have been trying to avoid - that since I have been here, even more than in the Gambia, I often find myself turning in the street to look twice at people who look so like individuals I have known from the UK, that even the names of people that I knew many years ago come back to me, and I find myself wanting to call out to them; the reason for that is the horror of the shared history of the UK and Africa in the form of the slave trad.
Cameroon, like many other places with a coastline on the Atlantic coast of Africa, has a history intimately connected with slavery, and quite rightly it has not been forgotten here.
To know that it is not just my imagination that so many people here look like they are related to people in the UK – to know that in fact many of their common ancestors suffered the horror of abduction and enslavement, only a few generations ago; is shameful and shocking.
To know that the world has still not eradicated slavery and that many people, especially children and women are still being bought and sold, and made to work without pay, today in all parts of the world is equally shameful and shocking.
Day 42: Monday 24th November 2008
A little distraction.........
Okay - now I know it's Monday morning and I am supposed to be working, but I defy anyone to resist this young woman! She comes along, sits herself down and says "I can write 2 + 2 = 4 - let me write it" - well who could resist?? Not me - nor Tom when he arrived from Santa. This little girl, whose name is "Blessing", and who is not yet 4, jumped down from the table and ran along the path to grab his legs and hug him when she saw him coming (he seems to have a magnetic attraction for kids here - he claims that it is the opposite with kids in the UK!! -but it's not the first time I have seen this happen!)
Oh and by the way, she does normally go to school, but she has a sick brother, so her mother, who is a temporary gardener, can't pay the school fees as well as the medical bills.
Thursday 20 November 2008
Cows feet, politics and a bottle of warm water.....
Day 37: Tuesday 18th November 2008
Catherine hosts our “send-off” party – she has prepared Yoruba style outfits for us, and special food, in particular "footcow" (which is apparently good for the joints!.) There is food, drink and speech-making, and we thank everyone for their hospitality, hard work and cooperation, without which our projects could not have taken place. In particular, Catherine's organisational, motivational and language skills have been invaluable.
Day 38: Wednesday 19th November 2008
“Not far now..... really .....”
Today I take a day off from report-writing, as Kharsum has invited me to visit Bambili lake with one of the Tubah Councillors. We set off early to avoid the heat of the day, and have been promised a short walk, but it turns out to be a long one and much later than planned.
The Cameroon countryside is volcanic and stunning, with still lakes hidden away in craters up in the hills; even high up, a lot of the area is cultivated; and the rest is grazing for cows, goats and sheep.
On the way we meet people that the Councillor knows; constituents, relatives, neighbours, friends and Pastor Martin, who is all four of the above. He is standing in the road with a pickaxe, working at breaking down boulders to make the road flatter, and is waiting for a group of volunteers he has co-opted to help with this. The time to manage the unpaved roads is in the dry season, which has now started; and in default of state support for road maintenance, individuals and groups are beginning to divide up stretches of unpaved road between them and take responsibility for their maintenance. It is back-breaking work at the hottest time of the year; but as Pastor Martin explains, the livelihood of the small farmers depends on access to market.
Pastor Martin lives locally, and is happy to escort us on to the lake. He takes the opportunity to harangue the Councillor on a number of contentious topics as we walk, but also runs to his farm to return with a freshly pulled bunch of carrots for us to take home.
"I never heard of anyone visiting a farm and coming home with no food" he laughs. We drop him back at the roadside, by which time the team of roadmending volunteers have arrived - they are a group of fairly elderly men; the heat is now intense, and we have nothing to offer them except a partly drunk bottle of warmish water, while they offer us enthusiastic greetings.
Catherine hosts our “send-off” party – she has prepared Yoruba style outfits for us, and special food, in particular "footcow" (which is apparently good for the joints!.) There is food, drink and speech-making, and we thank everyone for their hospitality, hard work and cooperation, without which our projects could not have taken place. In particular, Catherine's organisational, motivational and language skills have been invaluable.
Day 38: Wednesday 19th November 2008
“Not far now..... really .....”
Today I take a day off from report-writing, as Kharsum has invited me to visit Bambili lake with one of the Tubah Councillors. We set off early to avoid the heat of the day, and have been promised a short walk, but it turns out to be a long one and much later than planned.
The Cameroon countryside is volcanic and stunning, with still lakes hidden away in craters up in the hills; even high up, a lot of the area is cultivated; and the rest is grazing for cows, goats and sheep.
On the way we meet people that the Councillor knows; constituents, relatives, neighbours, friends and Pastor Martin, who is all four of the above. He is standing in the road with a pickaxe, working at breaking down boulders to make the road flatter, and is waiting for a group of volunteers he has co-opted to help with this. The time to manage the unpaved roads is in the dry season, which has now started; and in default of state support for road maintenance, individuals and groups are beginning to divide up stretches of unpaved road between them and take responsibility for their maintenance. It is back-breaking work at the hottest time of the year; but as Pastor Martin explains, the livelihood of the small farmers depends on access to market.
Pastor Martin lives locally, and is happy to escort us on to the lake. He takes the opportunity to harangue the Councillor on a number of contentious topics as we walk, but also runs to his farm to return with a freshly pulled bunch of carrots for us to take home.
"I never heard of anyone visiting a farm and coming home with no food" he laughs. We drop him back at the roadside, by which time the team of roadmending volunteers have arrived - they are a group of fairly elderly men; the heat is now intense, and we have nothing to offer them except a partly drunk bottle of warmish water, while they offer us enthusiastic greetings.
Sunday 16 November 2008
Volunteering, Pepe Soup and Risque Stories..
Day 32: Thursday 13th November 2008
Management Committee meeting at 9 - we leave at 7 to prepare 9. By 10:30 about 15 people have arrived; and our agenda item on the National Volunteering Proposal generates a lot of debate.
The proposal is adopted – Santa will host a pilot national volunteering scheme for Cameroon; Tom and I are delighted that we will hopefully leave something a little more concrete than a report, and it seems so are all the involved partner agencies.
Lunch to celebrate, is at Nicoline’s chop house, with pepe soup and boiled plantain. The pepe soup is a rich spicy goat meat soup, and is one of my favourites. Later we go to the Head of Services meeting which also involves good food and drink and a lot of good natured banter.
Management Committee meeting at 9 - we leave at 7 to prepare 9. By 10:30 about 15 people have arrived; and our agenda item on the National Volunteering Proposal generates a lot of debate.
The proposal is adopted – Santa will host a pilot national volunteering scheme for Cameroon; Tom and I are delighted that we will hopefully leave something a little more concrete than a report, and it seems so are all the involved partner agencies.
Lunch to celebrate, is at Nicoline’s chop house, with pepe soup and boiled plantain. The pepe soup is a rich spicy goat meat soup, and is one of my favourites. Later we go to the Head of Services meeting which also involves good food and drink and a lot of good natured banter.
Wednesday 12 November 2008
Millions of Africans choose Greatness!
Day 29: Monday 10th November 2008
After lunch we are back in the CEAC office, and Steve arrives on his daily visit, to check on Tom. Unlike many children here who are nervous of the “White Man” – Steve has taken a strong liking to Tom, and whenever he goes missing from his home, his elder siblings know exactly where to find him..!
Day 31: Wednesday 12th November 2008
Busy morning with 5 more interviews before 11:30 at the CEAC Provincial Meeting - back by lunchtime, can’t wait for news of how the “Building Our Futures 2008” Conference in the Wales Millenium Centre, Cardiff, has gone.........!
Later!
I hear it has been a fabulous success again! Well done to all concerned and especially to the young people who have delivered it!!
After lunch we are back in the CEAC office, and Steve arrives on his daily visit, to check on Tom. Unlike many children here who are nervous of the “White Man” – Steve has taken a strong liking to Tom, and whenever he goes missing from his home, his elder siblings know exactly where to find him..!
Day 31: Wednesday 12th November 2008
Busy morning with 5 more interviews before 11:30 at the CEAC Provincial Meeting - back by lunchtime, can’t wait for news of how the “Building Our Futures 2008” Conference in the Wales Millenium Centre, Cardiff, has gone.........!
Later!
I hear it has been a fabulous success again! Well done to all concerned and especially to the young people who have delivered it!!
Monday 10 November 2008
Pre-vocational courses and unexpectedly meeting an Icon..
Day 25: Thursday 6th November 2008
Thursday sees us in Bali (no, not that Bali – although I know one VSO volunteer who is there – I reckon that’s more of a holiday than a VSO placement personally!)
The Bali CEAC Director is Victor, who meets us on a motorbike, which, along with a very small office, seems to be the only resource he has. He takes us to a community hall, where we hold another workshop – this time fewer people know what the CEAC is, so we have to again change our theme questions; but it seems to go fairly well, and we are able to conduct some interviews whilst it is going on as well. Today many Cameroonians are celebrating the 26th anniversary of the accession of the President Paul Biya; so our courtesy visit to the Mayor is a short one.
Day 26: Friday 7th November 2008
We leave at 6 to drive to Jakiri, the road to which is not tarred all the way. It is a beautiful, if tiring journey, through striking peaks and valleys. We are lucky that we are here at the end of the rainy season, when the trees are still green and everything is fertile; the roads are dry enough to travel on, without being too dusty. The rich red earth of Cameroon is in wonderful contrast to the greens all around; and the countryside is full of crops, fruit and palm trees and some cattle grazing.
Cameroon has learned to its cost, as have other African countries, that eucalyptus planting has destroyed some of its water catchments, and is attempting to redress this with projects to plant other trees and reclaim some of the areas.
When we arrive at Jakiri, we go to greet the Mayor and find he has gone on ahead and is in fact waiting to greet us at the CEAC of Upper Dzekwa or Sop. We are treated like royalty when we arrive, there is a group of young people with a welcome song, and a formal programme of events.
This CEAC focuses on unemployed young people, and is running vocational training courses, in carpentry, tailoring, hairdressing, shoemaking and repairing, literacy and numeracy, amongst other things. Resources are limited and have been begged and borrowed from various sources. There are two aging computers, a few sewing machines, some carpentry tools and one ancient hairdryer. They would consider having a printer a great luxury.
It reminds me of when I taught pre-vocational courses for young people of this age in Manchester, and I can empathise with the passion which drives the Director and his teachers here, and also the Mayor, who is here to take part in the workshop, and communicates his own vision of empowering individuals and communities.
We are invited back to Mayor Laurence Ashang’s house to meet his mother Olive, who is a well known community development and women's advocate and journalist here, and to have lunch there. She is warm and welcoming and keen to hear about what we are all doing. It is a privilege to meet her.
The following link gives some information about her and her husband’s work.
http://www.shemkafoundation.org/history.shtml
Day 27: Saturday 8th November 2008
Today I go with Rose to a wedding. It is a simple service, followed by a blessing and a LOT (!)of singing and dancing, and is a very pleasant way to spend a Saturday afternoon.
Thursday sees us in Bali (no, not that Bali – although I know one VSO volunteer who is there – I reckon that’s more of a holiday than a VSO placement personally!)
The Bali CEAC Director is Victor, who meets us on a motorbike, which, along with a very small office, seems to be the only resource he has. He takes us to a community hall, where we hold another workshop – this time fewer people know what the CEAC is, so we have to again change our theme questions; but it seems to go fairly well, and we are able to conduct some interviews whilst it is going on as well. Today many Cameroonians are celebrating the 26th anniversary of the accession of the President Paul Biya; so our courtesy visit to the Mayor is a short one.
Day 26: Friday 7th November 2008
We leave at 6 to drive to Jakiri, the road to which is not tarred all the way. It is a beautiful, if tiring journey, through striking peaks and valleys. We are lucky that we are here at the end of the rainy season, when the trees are still green and everything is fertile; the roads are dry enough to travel on, without being too dusty. The rich red earth of Cameroon is in wonderful contrast to the greens all around; and the countryside is full of crops, fruit and palm trees and some cattle grazing.
Cameroon has learned to its cost, as have other African countries, that eucalyptus planting has destroyed some of its water catchments, and is attempting to redress this with projects to plant other trees and reclaim some of the areas.
When we arrive at Jakiri, we go to greet the Mayor and find he has gone on ahead and is in fact waiting to greet us at the CEAC of Upper Dzekwa or Sop. We are treated like royalty when we arrive, there is a group of young people with a welcome song, and a formal programme of events.
This CEAC focuses on unemployed young people, and is running vocational training courses, in carpentry, tailoring, hairdressing, shoemaking and repairing, literacy and numeracy, amongst other things. Resources are limited and have been begged and borrowed from various sources. There are two aging computers, a few sewing machines, some carpentry tools and one ancient hairdryer. They would consider having a printer a great luxury.
It reminds me of when I taught pre-vocational courses for young people of this age in Manchester, and I can empathise with the passion which drives the Director and his teachers here, and also the Mayor, who is here to take part in the workshop, and communicates his own vision of empowering individuals and communities.
We are invited back to Mayor Laurence Ashang’s house to meet his mother Olive, who is a well known community development and women's advocate and journalist here, and to have lunch there. She is warm and welcoming and keen to hear about what we are all doing. It is a privilege to meet her.
The following link gives some information about her and her husband’s work.
http://www.shemkafoundation.org/history.shtml
Day 27: Saturday 8th November 2008
Today I go with Rose to a wedding. It is a simple service, followed by a blessing and a LOT (!)of singing and dancing, and is a very pleasant way to spend a Saturday afternoon.
What we are actually trying to do !
Thanks for both comments - here is a little more detail about the project for those who want to know! - The work links with what Tom Alex and Charmain are doing in looking at the feasibility of a national volunteer scheme - the CEAC that I keep mentioning is a Community Education and Action Centre and is supposed to be a decentralised means of empowering the local communities by helping set up groups, run training etc - bit like the CVCs in Wales in some ways - except that they have very few resources; my job is to look at how that capacacity could be built, and if it is feasible to do it with Volunteers or for it to coordinate a volunteer resource base. Tom is looking at the potential demand in other areas both public sector and in the NGO sector; Alex is looking at supply - i.e young people coming in through the Youth Opportunities Programme and Charmain is looking at a communication strategy to engage Councils and other public sector bodies in the process. As you can see it all overlaps and is quite open at this stage in the process - so the workshops we have been doing have been part of the consultation phase. Hope this makes some sense!!
Thursday 6 November 2008
Where were you when Barack Obama was elected?
Day 20: Saturday 1st November 2008
Yesterday morning there was a unusual air of depression over the Baptist Centre – I did not find out until the end of the day that a close friend and colleague of many people there, had died that morning. Of the many deaths we have heard of in the 20 days we have been here, this one tragically could perhaps have been avoided. A young woman died of an AIDS related condition; she had never been tested for HIV – if she had, she could have been given effective long term treatment and support. Many people here are or have been at risk, but do not get tested until they start to have symptoms; and by then it may be too late.
Day 22: Monday 3rd November
A night-time visitor at the Baptist Centre has taken up daytime residence. A moth the size of a sparrow is resting on a window. With wings furled it looks like a piece of curled wood shaving or bark; unfurled it becomes a scary face to ward off predators - a few days late for Halloween.....
Day 23: Tuesday 4th November 2008
We go to Akum to meet some of the members of the Women’s groups. We have arranged to go at 2:00 and are expecting about 15 people; so Tom and I are planning to do a shorter version of Friday’s workshop, followed by a couple of in-depth interviews.
We arrive in the Community Hall at around one thirty; there are already more than 30 people present and seated, and more are approaching up the hill. We speedily re-think and improvise, with the use of a blackboard and chalk that is there for the use of a primary class, and Catherine helps organise the (mainly) women into 4 groups, and gets them energised by singing women’s celebration songs, dancing, praying and singing the National Anthem. Catherine tells me the people of Akum like to call it “Small London”; as they are proud of being hard-working, disciplined and successful (as they imagine are the people of “Big London”. I tell them I was brought up in London and so feel at home in Akum, which gets me a cheer and a burst of laughter.
When we start there are nearly 60 people present and raring to go. (NB – all the advice about working in Cameroon says “expect the unexpected” – this was certainly a case in point!)
This group is less comfortable with Standard English than Friday’s workshop delegates; so our welcomes, introductions and instructions have to be translated, partly into the local Akum language and partly into Camtok, the North-West Province Pidgin.
Despite all these potential pitfalls, the session seems to go well, and we gain some good feedback from the groups. The experience underlines the need to be working closely with a local partner; to always keep language and communication issues in mind, and the need to be prepared for anything!
In the evening everyone (both Cameroonians and overseas guests) are already getting excited about the potential victory of Barack Obama; watching CNN and listening to the BBC World Service. I try to stay awake until the first set of results come in, but give up after falling asleep at 9:15 in front of the TV!
Wednesday 5th November 2008
Bamenda is much quieter this morning than usual – many people have been up most of the night – awaiting the news that Barack Obama has been elected. There is an atmosphere of celebration and hope as Africans, Europeans and Americans alike, all celebrate this historic day.
Today we arrive promptly at Nkwen CEAC at 9:00, and discover that there has been a mis-communication and Esther, the Director there, has organised our visit for the 6th not the 5th. She and another worker, Tabitha, get straight on their mobiles to see who can come today; and in 15 minutes 10 people arrive.
Afterwards, we take the participants for a thank you lunch (350 Cameroon francs per head = 35p each), and in a Chop House (local restaurant) we all have achu and soup, with a little meat on the side. (Pounded coco-yam and a mild spicy sauce). I am shown how to shape the achu into a wide bowl, (a bit like making a pot out of clay), so that the sauce and meat can be put inside.
We eat the achu and soup with our right hand, (after washing in an individual bowl of water brought to the table). The achu is quite bland, but the soup is like a mild curry sauce, so it’s a bit like mashed potato and gravy.
Esther decides that we should then go to see the Mayor out of courtesy, (since he had the meeting in his diary for tomorrow). It is now about 2:30, and I am hot and tired and feel like I have yellow soup stains all round my mouth !; but this meeting turns out to be very useful as Lord Mayor Prince Amandou Pius Ngwa is keen to see a National Volunteer Scheme linked with the Nkwen CEAC. We leave with business cards and personal invitations to the launch of the Council’s 5 year Strategic Plan. Once again, a reminder to expect the unexpected, but also to make the most of every occasion, however apparently frustrating initially!
Yesterday morning there was a unusual air of depression over the Baptist Centre – I did not find out until the end of the day that a close friend and colleague of many people there, had died that morning. Of the many deaths we have heard of in the 20 days we have been here, this one tragically could perhaps have been avoided. A young woman died of an AIDS related condition; she had never been tested for HIV – if she had, she could have been given effective long term treatment and support. Many people here are or have been at risk, but do not get tested until they start to have symptoms; and by then it may be too late.
Day 22: Monday 3rd November
A night-time visitor at the Baptist Centre has taken up daytime residence. A moth the size of a sparrow is resting on a window. With wings furled it looks like a piece of curled wood shaving or bark; unfurled it becomes a scary face to ward off predators - a few days late for Halloween.....
Day 23: Tuesday 4th November 2008
We go to Akum to meet some of the members of the Women’s groups. We have arranged to go at 2:00 and are expecting about 15 people; so Tom and I are planning to do a shorter version of Friday’s workshop, followed by a couple of in-depth interviews.
We arrive in the Community Hall at around one thirty; there are already more than 30 people present and seated, and more are approaching up the hill. We speedily re-think and improvise, with the use of a blackboard and chalk that is there for the use of a primary class, and Catherine helps organise the (mainly) women into 4 groups, and gets them energised by singing women’s celebration songs, dancing, praying and singing the National Anthem. Catherine tells me the people of Akum like to call it “Small London”; as they are proud of being hard-working, disciplined and successful (as they imagine are the people of “Big London”. I tell them I was brought up in London and so feel at home in Akum, which gets me a cheer and a burst of laughter.
When we start there are nearly 60 people present and raring to go. (NB – all the advice about working in Cameroon says “expect the unexpected” – this was certainly a case in point!)
This group is less comfortable with Standard English than Friday’s workshop delegates; so our welcomes, introductions and instructions have to be translated, partly into the local Akum language and partly into Camtok, the North-West Province Pidgin.
Despite all these potential pitfalls, the session seems to go well, and we gain some good feedback from the groups. The experience underlines the need to be working closely with a local partner; to always keep language and communication issues in mind, and the need to be prepared for anything!
In the evening everyone (both Cameroonians and overseas guests) are already getting excited about the potential victory of Barack Obama; watching CNN and listening to the BBC World Service. I try to stay awake until the first set of results come in, but give up after falling asleep at 9:15 in front of the TV!
Wednesday 5th November 2008
Bamenda is much quieter this morning than usual – many people have been up most of the night – awaiting the news that Barack Obama has been elected. There is an atmosphere of celebration and hope as Africans, Europeans and Americans alike, all celebrate this historic day.
Today we arrive promptly at Nkwen CEAC at 9:00, and discover that there has been a mis-communication and Esther, the Director there, has organised our visit for the 6th not the 5th. She and another worker, Tabitha, get straight on their mobiles to see who can come today; and in 15 minutes 10 people arrive.
Afterwards, we take the participants for a thank you lunch (350 Cameroon francs per head = 35p each), and in a Chop House (local restaurant) we all have achu and soup, with a little meat on the side. (Pounded coco-yam and a mild spicy sauce). I am shown how to shape the achu into a wide bowl, (a bit like making a pot out of clay), so that the sauce and meat can be put inside.
We eat the achu and soup with our right hand, (after washing in an individual bowl of water brought to the table). The achu is quite bland, but the soup is like a mild curry sauce, so it’s a bit like mashed potato and gravy.
Esther decides that we should then go to see the Mayor out of courtesy, (since he had the meeting in his diary for tomorrow). It is now about 2:30, and I am hot and tired and feel like I have yellow soup stains all round my mouth !; but this meeting turns out to be very useful as Lord Mayor Prince Amandou Pius Ngwa is keen to see a National Volunteer Scheme linked with the Nkwen CEAC. We leave with business cards and personal invitations to the launch of the Council’s 5 year Strategic Plan. Once again, a reminder to expect the unexpected, but also to make the most of every occasion, however apparently frustrating initially!
Monday 3 November 2008
Day 11: Thursday 23rd October 2008
YOP: Youth Outreach Programme
This is the day that I managed to get on the Internet and upload most of the blog and pictures; I also manage an impromptu interview with Omer Songwe who runs the Youth Outreach Programme here. Two of the Peer Educators from the YOP, (Patience and Mary) are running a “Footsteps” empowerment course for young women in the Conference Room next door. “Footsteps” includes confidence-building, awareness raising, healthy eating, sexual health, assertiveness training, rights and responsibilities etc. The YOP seems to be unique in Cameroon; set up by Omer over 13 years ago, and run on a wing and a prayer since then; it has benefited hundreds of excluded and vulnerable young people. There are a lot of parallels with work being done in the UK; and certainly with Safer Wales’ ReStart and other young people’s projects. Chatting less formally I discover that Omer has spent a lot of time in the UK, most recently on a three month British High Commission Study Fellowship in Cardiff. We discuss possible links for when I return. Two more WAG short term volunteers are to be placed at the YOP; I think they will have productive and exciting placements working with Omer and the team.
Day 12: Friday 24th October 2008
Finally - some time to read background documents, plan and ponder....!
Day 13: Saturday October 25th 2008
I am up early, tempted by pawpaw and French bread, and I meet Kharsum for a shopping trip to town. Despite there being an apparent abundance of goods available in Bamenda, some of the everyday things we take for granted in the UK are more scarce and comparatively expensive; for example pens, paper and other basic stationery items. Many of the goods on sale are second-hand, (textbooks, European clothes, shoes).
We start off in the “Vatican” supermarket, where we buy “essentials” such as biscuits and chocolate (!) and then we meet Rebecca, a VSO Volunteer from Uganda and walk the length of Commercial Ave in search of a street map of Bamenda (unsuccessfully).
We visit the “Trade Fair” briefly, and then have omelette and salad in “Gracey’s”. It is later, when we meet up and chat with some of the other long term volunteers, that I begin to feel a little down for the first time. Everyone here seems to know that what they are doing is useful and necessary, but they are questioning how effective it actually is, and whether it will have any long term impact. I think that this is the one question we will all ask ourselves, and I am not sure if we will ever know the real answer, or even if there is one. Or perhaps it is just that some of the problems are overwhelming, and it feels like trying to empty a river with a teaspoon.......
Day 14: Sunday October 26th 2008
In Bamenda today it is so humid today that I can’t get my hair dry, even with a hairdryer. This Sunday we have both electricity and Internet access, so I make the most of it. Sitting in the peaceful and green Baptist Centre garden, as the humidity clears and the air cools later, I am aware that on the other side of the hedge, a man pastures his five goats on the slope by the edge of the road. He brings them daily, in the boot of a car, throwing them across the drainage ditch onto a four foot square slope of scrubby grass, and returns for them at the end of the day.
Cameroon is a country of contrasts like many in the developing world – some people here say that it is laziness that prevents the country from developing; on the contrary, what is striking to me is that every inch of this region is used for something; no piece of land remains fallow; and the innovation and creativity of people in making the most of the resources at their disposal is remarkable.
Day 15: Monday October 27th 2008
“Go fas’ now Pa, we already late!”
Catherine and I get a taxi to Santa; crushed in with 4 other people (plus the driver). (They took the goat out of the boot though). In Cameroon either you can hail a taxi by shouting your destination and hanging around at the junction where you need to go from, or they will hail you by beeping as they approach if you are walking. Our driver fusses over taking a lot of people and rearranging them – and the woman next to me, who is going to a college class up the hill, tells him to get a move on.
Tom is now staying in the spare room at the CEAC Centre, and VSO has helped with furnishings and equipment. Catherine wants to try out the new gas cooker, and she cooks rice and stew or “sauce” as it is often called here for us, Janet her volunteer helper, and Eric.
Back in Bamenda that evening, I order takeaway from “Uncle Sam’s” and Eric the waiter there calls me “Ma” when he takes my order, which is a respectful term for a Cameroonian woman, and this makes me feel less of a stranger. He brings the food in under 15 minutes, very quickly (is this the secret of how to get served fast in Cameroon – order takeaway???) and I share the huge plate of fried plantain he has brought me with another guest , as we watch Barack Obama’s closing address live on CNN. Many people here in Cameroon are keenly interested in local and international politics, and are following the US Presidential elections with alacrity.
Day 16: Tuesday 28th October 2008
“You people go home and we don’t know where you are, and we never see you again, and you have our photos, this is not a friendly thing to do”. Ma Aisatou, Santa
Today as a priority I go into Bamenda to make some prints of photographs I have taken of Tom’s neighbours in Santa. Ma Aisatou allowed me to take her photo on the strict condition that I give her a copy and bring one of myself. She instructed me that people in Cameroon think that it is “not friendly” of white people to just come along and take pictures of people, even with permission, without offering not only a copy back to the person of whom you having taken the picture, but also offering a picture of yourself. This makes perfect sense to me – she is saying you should only take pictures of people with whom you are friends.
The weather is wet and dreary today; following overnight thunderstorms which were loud enough to wake me, several times, followed by the screams of an animal at around 5 when the early taxis and minibuses are leaving, which I assume was a goat or pig being put in the boot of a car.....
Alex and Charmain (the new WAG volunteers for the YOP) arrive from Yaounde today with Ibrahim. There is some discussion about the house arranged for them, which is spacious and in a beautiful location, but has no running water, and has other downsides i.e. a plethora of unseemly occupants. (Large black cockroaches amongst other things). Charmain opts for a night in the Baptist Centre while things are sorted out, but Alex wants to get settled so remains there the night, hoping to get it to rights in the morning.
Day 17: Wednesday 29th October 2008
I go to the planning meeting at the YOP first thing, with Ibrahim, Omer, Charmain and Alex; which is useful, as their work will complement what Tom and I are doing.
Later, I brave the taxi to Santa alone for the first time, and succeed in getting the driver to take me up the hill to the CEAC office, instead of the main drop off point which is a good 200 yards away; initially when I request this he growls that he will do it for 1000 francs; I refuse, saying the normal fare is 500, and to my delight he turns the car, while still grumbling under his breath and heads up the hill. I have observed Catherine who is the expert at getting what she wants from people, what to expect and picked up some good strong pidgin phrases from her. She is delighted when she sees me arrive at the CEAC, and even more so when she hears I didn’t have to pay extra. I am sure there will be other days when it’s not so easy, but for today this is a small triumph!
There are still some issues with the accommodation for Charmain and Alex, and they both stay at the Baptist Centre today, but they are cheered by spotting a brightly coloured frog (anyone know what it is?) on the window in the Hillside Restaurant, along with a beer and some good food!
Day 18: Thursday 30th October 2008
Today is the CEAC’s 5th Anniversary Celebration, for which I wear my Santa Women’s “uniform”. We are seated with the most honoured guests – the Lord Mayor, the District Officer and local Fons. The former PM Pa Achu is on my right and he translates some of the more difficult pidgin in the performances for me. As at the Rural Women’s Day Celebration, I follow his example, and that of others in going forward to present small banknotes at the feet of the performers as a mark of appreciation. The temperature in Santa is much cooler than in Bamenda, and as we are sitting in the shade of the Santa Grandstand, we are all cold by the time the ceremonies are finished. Charmain is literally shivering in short sleeves, and Pa Achu gets his woollen scarf out.
We are invited to the VIP Reception in Pa Achu’s Santa compound, and there is much food, drink and hilarity. The younger VSOs are teased about their marital status, and the DO proposes to Charmain, saying he would like her to be his fifth wife (in reality he does only have one). The afternoon ends with the taking of many photographs, which are not on my camera, but I will get copies. It has been great fun, and I feel so privileged to be here.
Day 19: Friday 31st October 2008
“.....if we do something for the community, we also do it for ourselves.”
Clement Atanga, Lord Mayor, Santa Municipal Council, North-West Province, Cameroon.
The day of our workshop dawns at last, and Catherine and I plan to get to Santa early to help set up. This turns out to be a day when we can’t book a taxi to ourselves and so have to take the slower option of one which is carrying a full load (6 people + driver). It also turns out to be the day when we are stopped 4 times at different checkpoints on the road, and the driver has to pay a toll at one and produce his papers at others. At the 4th stop, the engine is overheating, and stream is pouring out of the radiator, so we have to wait while he puts water in – by now it is already 8:50 and we are due to start at 9:00.
It’s all hands on deck when we finally get there, and fortunately Eric, Omer, Alex and Charmain are there to help and we set up the Council Chamber in a semi circle of tables. People arrive relatively punctually and we are ready to start by 9:45 – and just await the Lord Mayor. Catherine opens the day with greetings and invites the group to sing the National Anthem, followed by a prayer.
Mayor Atanga has already warned me that he will only stay for the introductions, as he has a Ministerial meeting in Bamenda, but he asks if he can apologise to the group and address them before he goes. His address is powerful, articulate and engaging, and he sets the tone for the day far better than we could have hoped:
“You may think volunteering is about self-sacrifice, and for some people it may be. But it is also about doing something for the community, and since we are members of that community, we need to remember that if we do something for the community, we also do it for ourselves."
The workshop discussions are intense, and the forthcoming presentations are constructive, creative and compelling. I am relieved, as it is always nerve-wracking doing a workshop in a new setting, but I am also very impressed with the quality of the outcome, and Tom and I express our thanks to the group members for their hard work, and its quality.
Having witnessed some of the women in action last week, I am not surprised that some of the most powerful contributions come from them; - and the organisation of the workshop by Catherine is superb – the right people were there, we had aimed at 25, invited 40 and 28 participated on the day. We will be meeting some of the key stakeholders next week to revisit some of the conclusions from today.
YOP: Youth Outreach Programme
This is the day that I managed to get on the Internet and upload most of the blog and pictures; I also manage an impromptu interview with Omer Songwe who runs the Youth Outreach Programme here. Two of the Peer Educators from the YOP, (Patience and Mary) are running a “Footsteps” empowerment course for young women in the Conference Room next door. “Footsteps” includes confidence-building, awareness raising, healthy eating, sexual health, assertiveness training, rights and responsibilities etc. The YOP seems to be unique in Cameroon; set up by Omer over 13 years ago, and run on a wing and a prayer since then; it has benefited hundreds of excluded and vulnerable young people. There are a lot of parallels with work being done in the UK; and certainly with Safer Wales’ ReStart and other young people’s projects. Chatting less formally I discover that Omer has spent a lot of time in the UK, most recently on a three month British High Commission Study Fellowship in Cardiff. We discuss possible links for when I return. Two more WAG short term volunteers are to be placed at the YOP; I think they will have productive and exciting placements working with Omer and the team.
Day 12: Friday 24th October 2008
Finally - some time to read background documents, plan and ponder....!
Day 13: Saturday October 25th 2008
I am up early, tempted by pawpaw and French bread, and I meet Kharsum for a shopping trip to town. Despite there being an apparent abundance of goods available in Bamenda, some of the everyday things we take for granted in the UK are more scarce and comparatively expensive; for example pens, paper and other basic stationery items. Many of the goods on sale are second-hand, (textbooks, European clothes, shoes).
We start off in the “Vatican” supermarket, where we buy “essentials” such as biscuits and chocolate (!) and then we meet Rebecca, a VSO Volunteer from Uganda and walk the length of Commercial Ave in search of a street map of Bamenda (unsuccessfully).
We visit the “Trade Fair” briefly, and then have omelette and salad in “Gracey’s”. It is later, when we meet up and chat with some of the other long term volunteers, that I begin to feel a little down for the first time. Everyone here seems to know that what they are doing is useful and necessary, but they are questioning how effective it actually is, and whether it will have any long term impact. I think that this is the one question we will all ask ourselves, and I am not sure if we will ever know the real answer, or even if there is one. Or perhaps it is just that some of the problems are overwhelming, and it feels like trying to empty a river with a teaspoon.......
Day 14: Sunday October 26th 2008
In Bamenda today it is so humid today that I can’t get my hair dry, even with a hairdryer. This Sunday we have both electricity and Internet access, so I make the most of it. Sitting in the peaceful and green Baptist Centre garden, as the humidity clears and the air cools later, I am aware that on the other side of the hedge, a man pastures his five goats on the slope by the edge of the road. He brings them daily, in the boot of a car, throwing them across the drainage ditch onto a four foot square slope of scrubby grass, and returns for them at the end of the day.
Cameroon is a country of contrasts like many in the developing world – some people here say that it is laziness that prevents the country from developing; on the contrary, what is striking to me is that every inch of this region is used for something; no piece of land remains fallow; and the innovation and creativity of people in making the most of the resources at their disposal is remarkable.
Day 15: Monday October 27th 2008
“Go fas’ now Pa, we already late!”
Catherine and I get a taxi to Santa; crushed in with 4 other people (plus the driver). (They took the goat out of the boot though). In Cameroon either you can hail a taxi by shouting your destination and hanging around at the junction where you need to go from, or they will hail you by beeping as they approach if you are walking. Our driver fusses over taking a lot of people and rearranging them – and the woman next to me, who is going to a college class up the hill, tells him to get a move on.
Tom is now staying in the spare room at the CEAC Centre, and VSO has helped with furnishings and equipment. Catherine wants to try out the new gas cooker, and she cooks rice and stew or “sauce” as it is often called here for us, Janet her volunteer helper, and Eric.
Back in Bamenda that evening, I order takeaway from “Uncle Sam’s” and Eric the waiter there calls me “Ma” when he takes my order, which is a respectful term for a Cameroonian woman, and this makes me feel less of a stranger. He brings the food in under 15 minutes, very quickly (is this the secret of how to get served fast in Cameroon – order takeaway???) and I share the huge plate of fried plantain he has brought me with another guest , as we watch Barack Obama’s closing address live on CNN. Many people here in Cameroon are keenly interested in local and international politics, and are following the US Presidential elections with alacrity.
Day 16: Tuesday 28th October 2008
“You people go home and we don’t know where you are, and we never see you again, and you have our photos, this is not a friendly thing to do”. Ma Aisatou, Santa
Today as a priority I go into Bamenda to make some prints of photographs I have taken of Tom’s neighbours in Santa. Ma Aisatou allowed me to take her photo on the strict condition that I give her a copy and bring one of myself. She instructed me that people in Cameroon think that it is “not friendly” of white people to just come along and take pictures of people, even with permission, without offering not only a copy back to the person of whom you having taken the picture, but also offering a picture of yourself. This makes perfect sense to me – she is saying you should only take pictures of people with whom you are friends.
The weather is wet and dreary today; following overnight thunderstorms which were loud enough to wake me, several times, followed by the screams of an animal at around 5 when the early taxis and minibuses are leaving, which I assume was a goat or pig being put in the boot of a car.....
Alex and Charmain (the new WAG volunteers for the YOP) arrive from Yaounde today with Ibrahim. There is some discussion about the house arranged for them, which is spacious and in a beautiful location, but has no running water, and has other downsides i.e. a plethora of unseemly occupants. (Large black cockroaches amongst other things). Charmain opts for a night in the Baptist Centre while things are sorted out, but Alex wants to get settled so remains there the night, hoping to get it to rights in the morning.
Day 17: Wednesday 29th October 2008
I go to the planning meeting at the YOP first thing, with Ibrahim, Omer, Charmain and Alex; which is useful, as their work will complement what Tom and I are doing.
Later, I brave the taxi to Santa alone for the first time, and succeed in getting the driver to take me up the hill to the CEAC office, instead of the main drop off point which is a good 200 yards away; initially when I request this he growls that he will do it for 1000 francs; I refuse, saying the normal fare is 500, and to my delight he turns the car, while still grumbling under his breath and heads up the hill. I have observed Catherine who is the expert at getting what she wants from people, what to expect and picked up some good strong pidgin phrases from her. She is delighted when she sees me arrive at the CEAC, and even more so when she hears I didn’t have to pay extra. I am sure there will be other days when it’s not so easy, but for today this is a small triumph!
There are still some issues with the accommodation for Charmain and Alex, and they both stay at the Baptist Centre today, but they are cheered by spotting a brightly coloured frog (anyone know what it is?) on the window in the Hillside Restaurant, along with a beer and some good food!
Day 18: Thursday 30th October 2008
Today is the CEAC’s 5th Anniversary Celebration, for which I wear my Santa Women’s “uniform”. We are seated with the most honoured guests – the Lord Mayor, the District Officer and local Fons. The former PM Pa Achu is on my right and he translates some of the more difficult pidgin in the performances for me. As at the Rural Women’s Day Celebration, I follow his example, and that of others in going forward to present small banknotes at the feet of the performers as a mark of appreciation. The temperature in Santa is much cooler than in Bamenda, and as we are sitting in the shade of the Santa Grandstand, we are all cold by the time the ceremonies are finished. Charmain is literally shivering in short sleeves, and Pa Achu gets his woollen scarf out.
We are invited to the VIP Reception in Pa Achu’s Santa compound, and there is much food, drink and hilarity. The younger VSOs are teased about their marital status, and the DO proposes to Charmain, saying he would like her to be his fifth wife (in reality he does only have one). The afternoon ends with the taking of many photographs, which are not on my camera, but I will get copies. It has been great fun, and I feel so privileged to be here.
Day 19: Friday 31st October 2008
“.....if we do something for the community, we also do it for ourselves.”
Clement Atanga, Lord Mayor, Santa Municipal Council, North-West Province, Cameroon.
The day of our workshop dawns at last, and Catherine and I plan to get to Santa early to help set up. This turns out to be a day when we can’t book a taxi to ourselves and so have to take the slower option of one which is carrying a full load (6 people + driver). It also turns out to be the day when we are stopped 4 times at different checkpoints on the road, and the driver has to pay a toll at one and produce his papers at others. At the 4th stop, the engine is overheating, and stream is pouring out of the radiator, so we have to wait while he puts water in – by now it is already 8:50 and we are due to start at 9:00.
It’s all hands on deck when we finally get there, and fortunately Eric, Omer, Alex and Charmain are there to help and we set up the Council Chamber in a semi circle of tables. People arrive relatively punctually and we are ready to start by 9:45 – and just await the Lord Mayor. Catherine opens the day with greetings and invites the group to sing the National Anthem, followed by a prayer.
Mayor Atanga has already warned me that he will only stay for the introductions, as he has a Ministerial meeting in Bamenda, but he asks if he can apologise to the group and address them before he goes. His address is powerful, articulate and engaging, and he sets the tone for the day far better than we could have hoped:
“You may think volunteering is about self-sacrifice, and for some people it may be. But it is also about doing something for the community, and since we are members of that community, we need to remember that if we do something for the community, we also do it for ourselves."
The workshop discussions are intense, and the forthcoming presentations are constructive, creative and compelling. I am relieved, as it is always nerve-wracking doing a workshop in a new setting, but I am also very impressed with the quality of the outcome, and Tom and I express our thanks to the group members for their hard work, and its quality.
Having witnessed some of the women in action last week, I am not surprised that some of the most powerful contributions come from them; - and the organisation of the workshop by Catherine is superb – the right people were there, we had aimed at 25, invited 40 and 28 participated on the day. We will be meeting some of the key stakeholders next week to revisit some of the conclusions from today.
Thursday 23 October 2008
Week 2: Meeting Partners and Stakeholders
Day 9: Tuesday 21st October 2008
Farmer’s Breakfast
Catherine has arranged for us to meet the previous Prime Minister of Cameroon, who lives near Santa. We are invited to his farm for breakfast, so it is another early start, and involves a drive over rough roads to a hilltop location with stunning views. We are lucky that we are in Cameroon at the end of the wet season and before the hot dry season starts in the North West region, where we are based, and the countryside is lush and green.
Since crossing the border from the Western Province to the North-West we are no longer in a French-speaking area, and here the main language is English, although each village has its own local language, and the common language is a pidgin.
Pa Achu shows us over his farm, and describes his methods of production, and then we are privileged to share a brunch feast, involving some of his own produce.
Day 10: Wednesday 22nd October 2008
Rural Women’s Day Celebration 2008, Baligham, Santa District, North West Province
I am invited by Catherine to accompany her to the Rural Women’s Day celebration in Baligham. I am told the roads are bad so we are invited to accompany the Mayor of Santa (our boss) with his driver. It is a rough ride, and a tight squeeze, but well worth it as the day was well organised (started a little late !) and gave me a great insight into the work that is being done here with local community groups, especially the women’s groups. There were performances by groups demonstrating their awareness of the theme of Climate Change, and the importance of the role of rural women in tackling it. 11 marriages were also performed by Mayor Atanga at the end of the day; the theme of men and women working in partnership was also reiterated throughout the day, as here most of the farmers are women, and they can end up doing all the work on the small farms as well as the childcare and cooking and housework.
Too much to describe in detail – hopefully I will be able to put up some pictures.
A long day – out from 7:30 am and home 7:30 pm, exhausted but very happy with what I have seen, learned and experienced today. The internet was on briefly in the Baptist Centre, where I am staying, tonight, so hopefully tomorrow I will be able to get this onto the Blog!
By the way – thanks Mark for texting me to let me know that the BRG Group won the Echo Young Community Champions Award yesterday!! Great news – well done to all concerned!
Farmer’s Breakfast
Catherine has arranged for us to meet the previous Prime Minister of Cameroon, who lives near Santa. We are invited to his farm for breakfast, so it is another early start, and involves a drive over rough roads to a hilltop location with stunning views. We are lucky that we are in Cameroon at the end of the wet season and before the hot dry season starts in the North West region, where we are based, and the countryside is lush and green.
Since crossing the border from the Western Province to the North-West we are no longer in a French-speaking area, and here the main language is English, although each village has its own local language, and the common language is a pidgin.
Pa Achu shows us over his farm, and describes his methods of production, and then we are privileged to share a brunch feast, involving some of his own produce.
Day 10: Wednesday 22nd October 2008
Rural Women’s Day Celebration 2008, Baligham, Santa District, North West Province
I am invited by Catherine to accompany her to the Rural Women’s Day celebration in Baligham. I am told the roads are bad so we are invited to accompany the Mayor of Santa (our boss) with his driver. It is a rough ride, and a tight squeeze, but well worth it as the day was well organised (started a little late !) and gave me a great insight into the work that is being done here with local community groups, especially the women’s groups. There were performances by groups demonstrating their awareness of the theme of Climate Change, and the importance of the role of rural women in tackling it. 11 marriages were also performed by Mayor Atanga at the end of the day; the theme of men and women working in partnership was also reiterated throughout the day, as here most of the farmers are women, and they can end up doing all the work on the small farms as well as the childcare and cooking and housework.
Too much to describe in detail – hopefully I will be able to put up some pictures.
A long day – out from 7:30 am and home 7:30 pm, exhausted but very happy with what I have seen, learned and experienced today. The internet was on briefly in the Baptist Centre, where I am staying, tonight, so hopefully tomorrow I will be able to get this onto the Blog!
By the way – thanks Mark for texting me to let me know that the BRG Group won the Echo Young Community Champions Award yesterday!! Great news – well done to all concerned!
First Week....First Impressions
Day 1: Monday 13th October2008
Full Moon over Yaounde
Africa! Finally we land in Yaounde and disembark into the sweet warm Cameroon dusk, the light remaining only a few minutes, to be replaced by a huge full moon.
The journey had gone without a hitch, despite my almost not being allowed on the Air France plane because I did not have an identity card proving I was a member of an NGO (Non-Governmental Organisation – or charity). The flight was comfortable and the food was good, and progress through yellow fever certificate checks, and passport control smooth and fast.
Our team leader for the duration of the project, Ibrahim Peghouma, VSO Cameroon’s Participation and Governance Director, was there to meet us with a warm handshake and a big smile, in the baggage collection hall, and our luggage (which had all arrived, unlike that of Nili, whom we met later, whose bags had a week’s holiday in Nairobi...) was swiftly on a trolley. (Note to anyone arriving in Yaounde – make sure you keep your baggage checked in tags safely, as security guards at the airport will match them to your bags as you leave.)
Celestina Nsom (VSO Cameroon Programme Support Officer) was also there to meet us, and she steered our baggage trolley briskly towards VSO’s big silver 4X4, and we were soon heading towards Yaounde, with Ibrahim acting as “tour guide” , pointing out the yellow cabs and the 33 signs advertising beer. (The marketing company places these at 33 kilometres distances outside all towns to let you know how close your next beer is!!)
Day 2: Tuesday 14th October 2008
“In Europe the call Africa the Dark Continent.....we want to make it a little brighter ... and we want you to tell them....” Menge Nicodemus, VSO Cameroon Administrator
Staying in the Hotel Diplomate, where all the VSO volunteers stay, the priority after the first night, was a big spray can of Baygon as the mosquitoes had sent out a newsflash saying there was new tender white flesh in town!
Morning activities in Cameroon start as soon as it is light, and from my balcony at 6 30 am I was able to watch a group of runners out training, singing as they ran; and then the children at the Anglophone school also singing as they lined up outside in the playground waiting to go in.
Nili a long term volunteer from IVO (Indian Volunteer Organisation) a VSO partner, joined us, and we went to the VSO Office to meet the staff, and start an intensive one day’s ICT (In-country Training). For me, fresh from VSO’s Intensive Short Term Volunteer training in Birmingham the previous weekend, it was good to be able to place the theory immediately into a country and local-based framework.
Lunch was an African buffet with Menge and Susanne Mecaly (Finance Officer) accompanying us, followed by another session in the afternoon on procedures etc. In the evening we had our first taste of roadside grilled fish and plantain – yum!
Day 3: Wednesday 15th October 2008
Off to Bamenda, the capital of the North West Province in the big silver 4x4 with Ibrahim at the wheel. We stop at a village mosque, so while Ibrahim goes to pray, Nili and I ask permission from the women to use the village “facilities”. They speak no French or English but are welcoming. The children climb trees to pick guavas for us, and the male elders come out to greet us and see us off. The trees are full of colonies of weaver birds, dozens of basket-like nests in each tree.
We break the journey, with grilled fish and chilli sauce and a soft drink at a food stall. This is the usual stopping place for the buses between Yaounde and Bamenda, and many people stop for a break here. There are stalls and sellers of every kind. A young boy even sells us packets of paper tissues to clean our hands after the food. We sit at a stall selling drinks, and choose food from the various small stalls around us. The fish is cooked over a wood fire, and comes served on a dish with chili sauce on the side. We are offered a bowl of water to clean our hands before eating.
Many different things are available, but often the stallholder is just preparing one thing, like the fish seller, who just had three pieces of fish ready - 2 tails and 1head, but others are selling fried plantain, potatoes, a vegetable which Ibrahim called plums, but which tasted more like a cooked avocado, and much more.
A little further on Ibrahim shows us a stunning waterfall near Bafoussam, and we arrive at the very comfortable Baptist Centre Guest House just after 6, after a journey of about 7 hours. In the evening we met up with Eric the Canadian volunteer, our long term colleague in the Santa project, his Cameroonian girlfriend Brenda, and Paul another Canadian VSO long termer for food in “Uncle Sam’s”, just down the hill. Even in the 4x4, the journey had taken its toll, although the road is good most of the way, there were several kms of badly damaged roads, so I was very tired and glad of the rest in a comfortable bed that night.
Day 4: Thursday 16th October 2008
Breakfast prepared by Rose, who runs the guesthouse, is fresh French bread, eggs and real Cameroonian coffee – the first we had had since we came, it seems all the coffee served elsewhere is Nescafe. We are well set up for the very full day Ibrahim has planned for us, starting promptly at 9 with a meeting with Catherine Sakah (she arrives at 8:45) ; we had already been planning with Ibrahim since he had arrived at 8:30 (so much for what we had been told about lateness and different concepts of time !)
Catherine is the Director of the Community Education and Action Committee, and my placement assignment is to look at capacity building with her. We hold the meeting outside in the garden until it becomes so cold!! that we have to go in, and I lend Catherine a warm wrap (more expectations shattered!!). Having agreed an action plan, a calendar and a budget for the 6 week project, we then take a trip to Santa to have a look around, have a look at proposed accommodation for Tom in the CEAC office, and see if maybe we can "bump into" the Mayor or other councillors around town.
In the event, Catherine also manages to get us in to see the District Officer, the local Presidential representative – (unheard of to get to meet someone of this rank at a moment’s notice), but the DO was very interested in VSO and the project, and kindly offered his full support.
By the time we had finished Ibrahim needs to rush to his next meeting and we sample lunch at the Handicraft Centre – Eric recommends the "Farmer's Salad" which is indeed superb and so large I have to give away the chips that come with it!
Three days in and we have already broken several of the advised conditions to keep good health – not eating fresh fruit, not eating salad, not eating street food etc; it is really hard to not do anything that might be enjoyable!
By the time we get back to Bamenda, Shamsul (another VSO volunteer) has arrived (a day early!)a team review meeting planned for Saturday morning and is able to offer moral support to NIli, whose bags are still in Nairobi, and who has been unable to depart for her placement in Ndu.
Day 5: Friday 17th October 2008
“Sorry the food was late – we had an accident in the kitchen... “
(the gas bottle blew up so they replaced it in order to cook our lunch!)
We have acquired, with Yusuf’s (VSO Logistics) help, MTN (Cameroonian) SIM cards for our phones, and are exchanging numbers with our new colleagues – I regret leaving my phone on overnight to charge, as Catherine rings me at 6:30 on Friday morning. She arrives at 7:45 full of new ideas that she had come up with overnight; after we had gone through these, I barely had time to finish preparing the project plan and budget proposal .
Friday afternoon is less pressured as I accompany Ibrahim to a project evaluation visit in Tubah so I can pass on greetings to the Lord Mayor and his wife from Marg who was the previous WAG placed there.
The meeting is a positive one, and I meet Kharsum the Philippino volunteer who is doing the long term follow up to Marg’s work. We are then fortunate enough to be invited to the Lord Mayor’s house and to sample his wife’s cooking (thanks Madame Mona!) and then back to Bamenda to meet up with the other VSO volunteers in a restaurant called “Dreamland”!
The good news is that Nili’s bags have now made their way to Yaounde and been bussed up to Bamenda – all five of them!
Day 6: Saturday 18th October
We are picked up just after 9 and meet the VSO P&G (participation and Governance) Team including Hector, also a Philipino volunteer. After another long and intensive meeting we have lunch at the International, while Ibrahim does short “one- to-one” meetings with each of us, making sure we have a chance to voice any issues and that we feel supported.
Later in the day Shamsul is picked up by John who runs the Mental Health Care Centre in Babessi. Mostly treating HIV/Aids patients who have severe mental health problems, they have developed a package of care using a combination of modern medication and traditional methods. Some patients have stabilised enough, and recovered enough self-esteem to begin to reintegrate into a society which stigmatises them, and to do so, they are learning skills and trades. One of these is raising chickens for sale – and lo and behold in John’s car there are 50 day-old chicks to be taken back to Babessi for that very purpose.
Today there is no communication with the outside world as the telecom system is not working, nor the TV or Internet. But we have electricity....
Day 7: Sunday 19th October 2008
Today we have no electricity.....
Nili is finally able to travel to her placement in Ndu (2 year placement following on from Polly’s (WAG's earlier short term cohort) work earlier in the year). Tom and I wave her and Ibrahim off, realising that our first week is almost over, and also that we have a day off to catch up on emails etc before getting back into work tomorrow at 8 a.m.
But – with no shops open on Sunday and no electricity – only one Internet cafe is open which has its own generator, and it is packed – it looks like we will be getting into the Cameroonian habit of a very early night and getting up as soon as it is light. (Yawn!)
Day 8: Monday 20th October 2008
Up early again to go to the CEAC to meet some of the women coming to help plan the CEAC Celebration event on the 30th. Today we are also able to see the Mayor of Santa, and I went with Catherine to meet her Provincial District Manager David Backbuin Nfazah and introduce the project to him. Again he is supportive and helpful. After lunch with him, Catherine and I go shopping for Santa Council uniforms, as it has been suggested by Mayor Atanga, that we wear them for the CEAC Celebration Day planned for 30th October next week. Our plan is to ask some of the delegates to remain in Santa to attend a workshop with us on the following day. Getting a uniform involves buying a particular fabric in the market and then choosing a design with a seamstress. I am not sure that African dress will suit me, but Catherine assures me it is appropriate and respectful on certain occasions.
Full Moon over Yaounde
Africa! Finally we land in Yaounde and disembark into the sweet warm Cameroon dusk, the light remaining only a few minutes, to be replaced by a huge full moon.
The journey had gone without a hitch, despite my almost not being allowed on the Air France plane because I did not have an identity card proving I was a member of an NGO (Non-Governmental Organisation – or charity). The flight was comfortable and the food was good, and progress through yellow fever certificate checks, and passport control smooth and fast.
Our team leader for the duration of the project, Ibrahim Peghouma, VSO Cameroon’s Participation and Governance Director, was there to meet us with a warm handshake and a big smile, in the baggage collection hall, and our luggage (which had all arrived, unlike that of Nili, whom we met later, whose bags had a week’s holiday in Nairobi...) was swiftly on a trolley. (Note to anyone arriving in Yaounde – make sure you keep your baggage checked in tags safely, as security guards at the airport will match them to your bags as you leave.)
Celestina Nsom (VSO Cameroon Programme Support Officer) was also there to meet us, and she steered our baggage trolley briskly towards VSO’s big silver 4X4, and we were soon heading towards Yaounde, with Ibrahim acting as “tour guide” , pointing out the yellow cabs and the 33 signs advertising beer. (The marketing company places these at 33 kilometres distances outside all towns to let you know how close your next beer is!!)
Day 2: Tuesday 14th October 2008
“In Europe the call Africa the Dark Continent.....we want to make it a little brighter ... and we want you to tell them....” Menge Nicodemus, VSO Cameroon Administrator
Staying in the Hotel Diplomate, where all the VSO volunteers stay, the priority after the first night, was a big spray can of Baygon as the mosquitoes had sent out a newsflash saying there was new tender white flesh in town!
Morning activities in Cameroon start as soon as it is light, and from my balcony at 6 30 am I was able to watch a group of runners out training, singing as they ran; and then the children at the Anglophone school also singing as they lined up outside in the playground waiting to go in.
Nili a long term volunteer from IVO (Indian Volunteer Organisation) a VSO partner, joined us, and we went to the VSO Office to meet the staff, and start an intensive one day’s ICT (In-country Training). For me, fresh from VSO’s Intensive Short Term Volunteer training in Birmingham the previous weekend, it was good to be able to place the theory immediately into a country and local-based framework.
Lunch was an African buffet with Menge and Susanne Mecaly (Finance Officer) accompanying us, followed by another session in the afternoon on procedures etc. In the evening we had our first taste of roadside grilled fish and plantain – yum!
Day 3: Wednesday 15th October 2008
Off to Bamenda, the capital of the North West Province in the big silver 4x4 with Ibrahim at the wheel. We stop at a village mosque, so while Ibrahim goes to pray, Nili and I ask permission from the women to use the village “facilities”. They speak no French or English but are welcoming. The children climb trees to pick guavas for us, and the male elders come out to greet us and see us off. The trees are full of colonies of weaver birds, dozens of basket-like nests in each tree.
We break the journey, with grilled fish and chilli sauce and a soft drink at a food stall. This is the usual stopping place for the buses between Yaounde and Bamenda, and many people stop for a break here. There are stalls and sellers of every kind. A young boy even sells us packets of paper tissues to clean our hands after the food. We sit at a stall selling drinks, and choose food from the various small stalls around us. The fish is cooked over a wood fire, and comes served on a dish with chili sauce on the side. We are offered a bowl of water to clean our hands before eating.
Many different things are available, but often the stallholder is just preparing one thing, like the fish seller, who just had three pieces of fish ready - 2 tails and 1head, but others are selling fried plantain, potatoes, a vegetable which Ibrahim called plums, but which tasted more like a cooked avocado, and much more.
A little further on Ibrahim shows us a stunning waterfall near Bafoussam, and we arrive at the very comfortable Baptist Centre Guest House just after 6, after a journey of about 7 hours. In the evening we met up with Eric the Canadian volunteer, our long term colleague in the Santa project, his Cameroonian girlfriend Brenda, and Paul another Canadian VSO long termer for food in “Uncle Sam’s”, just down the hill. Even in the 4x4, the journey had taken its toll, although the road is good most of the way, there were several kms of badly damaged roads, so I was very tired and glad of the rest in a comfortable bed that night.
Day 4: Thursday 16th October 2008
Breakfast prepared by Rose, who runs the guesthouse, is fresh French bread, eggs and real Cameroonian coffee – the first we had had since we came, it seems all the coffee served elsewhere is Nescafe. We are well set up for the very full day Ibrahim has planned for us, starting promptly at 9 with a meeting with Catherine Sakah (she arrives at 8:45) ; we had already been planning with Ibrahim since he had arrived at 8:30 (so much for what we had been told about lateness and different concepts of time !)
Catherine is the Director of the Community Education and Action Committee, and my placement assignment is to look at capacity building with her. We hold the meeting outside in the garden until it becomes so cold!! that we have to go in, and I lend Catherine a warm wrap (more expectations shattered!!). Having agreed an action plan, a calendar and a budget for the 6 week project, we then take a trip to Santa to have a look around, have a look at proposed accommodation for Tom in the CEAC office, and see if maybe we can "bump into" the Mayor or other councillors around town.
In the event, Catherine also manages to get us in to see the District Officer, the local Presidential representative – (unheard of to get to meet someone of this rank at a moment’s notice), but the DO was very interested in VSO and the project, and kindly offered his full support.
By the time we had finished Ibrahim needs to rush to his next meeting and we sample lunch at the Handicraft Centre – Eric recommends the "Farmer's Salad" which is indeed superb and so large I have to give away the chips that come with it!
Three days in and we have already broken several of the advised conditions to keep good health – not eating fresh fruit, not eating salad, not eating street food etc; it is really hard to not do anything that might be enjoyable!
By the time we get back to Bamenda, Shamsul (another VSO volunteer) has arrived (a day early!)a team review meeting planned for Saturday morning and is able to offer moral support to NIli, whose bags are still in Nairobi, and who has been unable to depart for her placement in Ndu.
Day 5: Friday 17th October 2008
“Sorry the food was late – we had an accident in the kitchen... “
(the gas bottle blew up so they replaced it in order to cook our lunch!)
We have acquired, with Yusuf’s (VSO Logistics) help, MTN (Cameroonian) SIM cards for our phones, and are exchanging numbers with our new colleagues – I regret leaving my phone on overnight to charge, as Catherine rings me at 6:30 on Friday morning. She arrives at 7:45 full of new ideas that she had come up with overnight; after we had gone through these, I barely had time to finish preparing the project plan and budget proposal .
Friday afternoon is less pressured as I accompany Ibrahim to a project evaluation visit in Tubah so I can pass on greetings to the Lord Mayor and his wife from Marg who was the previous WAG placed there.
The meeting is a positive one, and I meet Kharsum the Philippino volunteer who is doing the long term follow up to Marg’s work. We are then fortunate enough to be invited to the Lord Mayor’s house and to sample his wife’s cooking (thanks Madame Mona!) and then back to Bamenda to meet up with the other VSO volunteers in a restaurant called “Dreamland”!
The good news is that Nili’s bags have now made their way to Yaounde and been bussed up to Bamenda – all five of them!
Day 6: Saturday 18th October
We are picked up just after 9 and meet the VSO P&G (participation and Governance) Team including Hector, also a Philipino volunteer. After another long and intensive meeting we have lunch at the International, while Ibrahim does short “one- to-one” meetings with each of us, making sure we have a chance to voice any issues and that we feel supported.
Later in the day Shamsul is picked up by John who runs the Mental Health Care Centre in Babessi. Mostly treating HIV/Aids patients who have severe mental health problems, they have developed a package of care using a combination of modern medication and traditional methods. Some patients have stabilised enough, and recovered enough self-esteem to begin to reintegrate into a society which stigmatises them, and to do so, they are learning skills and trades. One of these is raising chickens for sale – and lo and behold in John’s car there are 50 day-old chicks to be taken back to Babessi for that very purpose.
Today there is no communication with the outside world as the telecom system is not working, nor the TV or Internet. But we have electricity....
Day 7: Sunday 19th October 2008
Today we have no electricity.....
Nili is finally able to travel to her placement in Ndu (2 year placement following on from Polly’s (WAG's earlier short term cohort) work earlier in the year). Tom and I wave her and Ibrahim off, realising that our first week is almost over, and also that we have a day off to catch up on emails etc before getting back into work tomorrow at 8 a.m.
But – with no shops open on Sunday and no electricity – only one Internet cafe is open which has its own generator, and it is packed – it looks like we will be getting into the Cameroonian habit of a very early night and getting up as soon as it is light. (Yawn!)
Day 8: Monday 20th October 2008
Up early again to go to the CEAC to meet some of the women coming to help plan the CEAC Celebration event on the 30th. Today we are also able to see the Mayor of Santa, and I went with Catherine to meet her Provincial District Manager David Backbuin Nfazah and introduce the project to him. Again he is supportive and helpful. After lunch with him, Catherine and I go shopping for Santa Council uniforms, as it has been suggested by Mayor Atanga, that we wear them for the CEAC Celebration Day planned for 30th October next week. Our plan is to ask some of the delegates to remain in Santa to attend a workshop with us on the following day. Getting a uniform involves buying a particular fabric in the market and then choosing a design with a seamstress. I am not sure that African dress will suit me, but Catherine assures me it is appropriate and respectful on certain occasions.
Saturday 4 October 2008
Preparing for Adventure.....
A week to go before I head off on a Welsh Assembly funded VSO short-term placement in the North West province of Cameroon in Africa. 6 weeks working on capacity building and organisational development with a small town council in Santa, and working with the Community Education and Action Centre adviser in Bamenda the regional capital. Veering from complete excitement to complete nerves, contemplating the trip - although there is lots of information available, not least from the last cohort of WAG volunteers (thanks Polly and Marg!) and from Eric the Canadian VSO volunteer already there, not forgetting Chris at VSO London and Ibrahim, the VSO country Director, who has already been extremely supportive.
Just now sorting out last minute buys, on Polly and Marg's advice (wind-up torches..) setting up this blog (a first for me - but advised the best way to communicate and more efficient than round robin e-mails), and sorting out who will look after the Cat (firework season not her favourite time of year!)
So I hope I will have some good stories to tell, and that you will enjoy reading them. Hopefully I will manage to upload some photos too, but in the meantime have a look at Polly's pictures and stories on her blog (link below).
Just now sorting out last minute buys, on Polly and Marg's advice (wind-up torches..) setting up this blog (a first for me - but advised the best way to communicate and more efficient than round robin e-mails), and sorting out who will look after the Cat (firework season not her favourite time of year!)
So I hope I will have some good stories to tell, and that you will enjoy reading them. Hopefully I will manage to upload some photos too, but in the meantime have a look at Polly's pictures and stories on her blog (link below).
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