Where were you when Barack Obama was elected?

Day 20: Saturday 1st November 2008
Yesterday morning there was a unusual air of depression over the Baptist Centre – I did not find out until the end of the day that a close friend and colleague of many people there, had died that morning. Of the many deaths we have heard of in the 20 days we have been here, this one tragically could perhaps have been avoided. A young woman died of an AIDS related condition; she had never been tested for HIV – if she had, she could have been given effective long term treatment and support. Many people here are or have been at risk, but do not get tested until they start to have symptoms; and by then it may be too late.

Day 22: Monday 3rd November
A night-time visitor at the Baptist Centre has taken up daytime residence. A moth the size of a sparrow is resting on a window. With wings furled it looks like a piece of curled wood shaving or bark; unfurled it becomes a scary face to ward off predators - a few days late for Halloween.....

Day 23: Tuesday 4th November 2008
We go to Akum to meet some of the members of the Women’s groups. We have arranged to go at 2:00 and are expecting about 15 people; so Tom and I are planning to do a shorter version of Friday’s workshop, followed by a couple of in-depth interviews.

We arrive in the Community Hall at around one thirty; there are already more than 30 people present and seated, and more are approaching up the hill. We speedily re-think and improvise, with the use of a blackboard and chalk that is there for the use of a primary class, and Catherine helps organise the (mainly) women into 4 groups, and gets them energised by singing women’s celebration songs, dancing, praying and singing the National Anthem. Catherine tells me the people of Akum like to call it “Small London”; as they are proud of being hard-working, disciplined and successful (as they imagine are the people of “Big London”. I tell them I was brought up in London and so feel at home in Akum, which gets me a cheer and a burst of laughter.
When we start there are nearly 60 people present and raring to go. (NB – all the advice about working in Cameroon says “expect the unexpected” – this was certainly a case in point!)
This group is less comfortable with Standard English than Friday’s workshop delegates; so our welcomes, introductions and instructions have to be translated, partly into the local Akum language and partly into Camtok, the North-West Province Pidgin.

Despite all these potential pitfalls, the session seems to go well, and we gain some good feedback from the groups. The experience underlines the need to be working closely with a local partner; to always keep language and communication issues in mind, and the need to be prepared for anything!

In the evening everyone (both Cameroonians and overseas guests) are already getting excited about the potential victory of Barack Obama; watching CNN and listening to the BBC World Service. I try to stay awake until the first set of results come in, but give up after falling asleep at 9:15 in front of the TV!

Wednesday 5th November 2008
Bamenda is much quieter this morning than usual – many people have been up most of the night – awaiting the news that Barack Obama has been elected. There is an atmosphere of celebration and hope as Africans, Europeans and Americans alike, all celebrate this historic day.
Today we arrive promptly at Nkwen CEAC at 9:00, and discover that there has been a mis-communication and Esther, the Director there, has organised our visit for the 6th not the 5th. She and another worker, Tabitha, get straight on their mobiles to see who can come today; and in 15 minutes 10 people arrive.

Afterwards, we take the participants for a thank you lunch (350 Cameroon francs per head = 35p each), and in a Chop House (local restaurant) we all have achu and soup, with a little meat on the side. (Pounded coco-yam and a mild spicy sauce). I am shown how to shape the achu into a wide bowl, (a bit like making a pot out of clay), so that the sauce and meat can be put inside.
We eat the achu and soup with our right hand, (after washing in an individual bowl of water brought to the table). The achu is quite bland, but the soup is like a mild curry sauce, so it’s a bit like mashed potato and gravy.

Esther decides that we should then go to see the Mayor out of courtesy, (since he had the meeting in his diary for tomorrow). It is now about 2:30, and I am hot and tired and feel like I have yellow soup stains all round my mouth !; but this meeting turns out to be very useful as Lord Mayor Prince Amandou Pius Ngwa is keen to see a National Volunteer Scheme linked with the Nkwen CEAC. We leave with business cards and personal invitations to the launch of the Council’s 5 year Strategic Plan. Once again, a reminder to expect the unexpected, but also to make the most of every occasion, however apparently frustrating initially!